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While there are literally thousands of different types of cosmetic products, there are actually only 10 different types of cosmetic formulas. Here is a brief overview of those types including what they are, how they’re made and when you might use them. As a formulating chemist, you should make it a point to learn to make each type (even if your company currently doesn’t make these particular products).The basic categories for cosmetic formulas include
Solution Cosmetics
These are the simplest type of cosmetic formulas and are used for a wide range of products such as shampoos, body wash, hand cleansers, colognes, etc. They are homogeneous mixtures of soluble ingredients. To make them you simply fill your container with the main diluent (usually water) then mix the rest of the ingredients into it. Sometimes warming the system slightly will increase the speed at which you can make them.
Creams / Emulsions
The majority of cosmetics use raw materials that are not compatible so a cream or emulsion is used. Emulsions are pseudo stable mixtures of immiscible liquids dispersed in another liquid. They are used for products like hand moisturizers, make up, hair conditioners, sunscreens, etc. To create them you need three formula components including an oil phase, aqueous phase, and an emulsifier. The formulas are made by heating up the oil and water phases separately, mixing them together (along with the emulsifier) when they are hot, and cooling them down with thorough mixing. The result is a cream with tiny particles of dispersed in the diluent phase. See our article on emulsion HLB for more information on creating emulsions.
Lotions
Creams are not always appropriate for some applications because they can be too heavy or greasy. In these cases, the lotion form is used. Lotions are essentially thin creams. They are used for facial moisturizers, leave-in hair conditioners, and moisturizing cleansers. Since these are emulsions, you make them the same way you would a cream. They are generally easier because you do not have to worry about the emulsion getting thick enough as it cools down.
Suspensions
Suspensions are another product form for delivering incompatible ingredients. Unlike creams, they are typically clear products with visible particles like gelatin beads or inorganic minerals (e.g titanium dioxide) suspended throughout. They are used for sunscreens, hand washes or shampoos. To create them you need to include a polymer or clay that gives the formula some internal suspending structure. Ingredients like carbomer or bentonite clays are useful.
Ointments / Pastes
These are super thick products used for things like hairdressing and medicated skin products. Usually, they are anhydrous (contain no water) and are sticky & greasy. Some common ingredients used to create pastes include petrolatum, lanolin, or dimethicone. Making them is a simple matter of heating up the raw materials and rapidly mixing them until they are dispersed.
Tablets & Capsules
Another product form that is often used for creating color cosmetics is the tablet. These are physically blended solids that are held together by being pressed into shape. You’ll need special equipment to create these products. They are also generally more expensive.
Powders
One of the most common types of product forms for color cosmetics is powders. Powders are also used for products like baby powder & foot powder. They are just mixtures of solid raw materials blended together into a fine powder. Some typical ingredients include talc, silicates, and starch. Special equipment is needed when making these products as the fine powder can be dangerous.
Gels
Another common form of cosmetic products is gels. These are thick products, typically clear, and have a property known as “shear thinning”. This means they stay thick until you apply a force which makes them thin and flowable. Anyone who has tried to get ketchup out of a bottle knows what we’re talking about. Gels are used for hair products, body washes, shaving products, and in toothpaste. They are made by using a gelling agent such as an acrylic polymer, a natural gum or a cellulosic thickener.
Sticks
Sometimes you need to create a product that the consumer won’t necessarily want to touch, for example, lipstick or underarm deodorant. In these cases you’ll use a stick product form. Sticks are solid delivery forms that deliver active ingredients through a rubbing action. The way you create them is by using mostly materials that are solid at room temperature. The ingredients are heated until they melt, mixed, and poured into either a mold or the final container. When they cool, they take the shape of their packaging.
Aerosols
Aerosols are more of a packaging product form than a specific formulation type. You could actually create an aerosol out of almost any cosmetic formulation if you have the right can, propellant, and nozzle set-up. Aerosols are any cosmetic delivered from a pressurized can. They are composed of a concentrate and a propellant. You first make the formula as you would any other cosmetic, then fill it into the can. You seal the can and pressurize it using the appropriate propellant. Recent VOC (volatile organic compounds) regulations have reduced the use of aerosols in cosmetic products.
About cosmetics
More than $40 billion is blown on cosmetics globally each year and hundreds of hours are spent applying creams, lotions and powders. Even with the recent downturn in the economy, makeup-addicts have simply turned to drugstores, instead of high-end boutiques, to snag their tonics, wands and face paints, according to a recent consumer report by Euromonitor International.
Some people treasure their makeup and can't imagine life without it. Others would argue all this time and money is wasted. But what does science say?
Biologists argue that cosmetics can play a significant role in how your life turns out.
While it is often said that love is blind, "physical attractiveness seems to be one of the most prominent factors, if not the most significant one, in human mate selection," said behavioral biologist Bernhard Fink of the University of Gottingen in Germany. And cosmetics enhance attractiveness in a quantifiable and real-world relevant way, Fink told LiveScience.
Cosmetics have also been shown to boost earning potential and perhaps even make a promotion more likely, according to a study in the Journal of Applied Social Psychology in 2006.
But before letting the woman behind the makeup counter pack up a duffel bag of "life-altering" products, you might wish to know which ones are worth the dollars and time.
If you are trying to look healthier, foundation and face powders may be most important. If masking your age is your priority, mascara and a little nose shading may be a better bet than wrinkle creams. And if luring in a lover is your goal, you may want to amplify sex-specific traits, such as lush lips or sultry eyes.
Sign of health
A uniform skin tone can be a sign of health, Fink said, and attempts to hide sacks of fatigue under your eyes or a distracting blemish could also win points in the health category. This likely explains the popularity of foundations, concealers and skin-care products among both men and women.
At over $13 billion dollars, foundation and similar makeup products formed the lion's share of the global color cosmetics market in 2008.
And the popularity of men's skin-care products is expected to continue growing in the United States no matter the economy, reported Euromonitor International in 2009.
Wrinkle reality
Wrinkles and fine lines might not be worth losing beauty sleep over. The geometry of your face will likely give away your age long before anyone notices crow's feet, researchers are finding.
One feature that skews face geometry lies right on center stage: the nose.
While most facial features finish growing shortly after adolescence, the nose (and ears) never gets the memo. A large schnoz in relation to the rest of the face is often a sign of an older person. Of course, ethnicity can also determine relative nose size.
But if you're not interested in growing old gracefully, using a contour brush to shrink your beak will likely have a bigger impact on your appearance than a hundred-dollar wrinkle cream.
The eyes have it
Studies have shown that not only do the eyes see, they demand to be seen – a trait possibly unique to humans.
So you may be able to drown out the nose's announcement of your age, by amplifying the eyes. Large eyes, in particular, have long been associated with faces that look young, even "babyish."
Mascara is one popular way of making eyes seem voluminous.
Relative darkness of the skin area around the eyes also matters. Male faces tend to have relatively uniform shading, while the eye regions of women, even without makeup, tend to be significantly darker than the rest of the face, according to studies by Richard Russell at Gettysburg College in Pennsylvania.
"Increasing or decreasing this luminance difference will make a face more feminine or masculine, respectively, and hence, more or less attractive," explained Fink who was not involved in Russell's studies.
By augmenting this contrast, mascara, eyeliner and eye-shadow showcase femininity. So even if ancient Egyptian men did line their eyes with kohl (black-shaded cosmetic), eye makeup is not recommended for today's metrosexual man.
Lipstick, lip-liner and balm
Russell found similar gender differences between the contrast of the lips and the rest of the face, with women naturally having darker mouths than men of the same skin tone. Lipstick enhances this difference, silently calling out, female here!
Despite the occasional popularity of Goth lipstick, classic crimson shades are – surprise, surprise – more objectively attractive. Red lips can signal healthy circulation and even sexual arousal – a message that grabs most men's attention.
The shape of your kisser, something often redefined by lip-liners and their ilk, can also affect attractiveness. Lip symmetry is an important trait for both men and women, according to researcher Kendra Schmid and colleagues at the University of Nebraska.
Full lips, however, are more a woman's prerogative. Lush lips tend to develop under the influence of female hormones and could indicate fertility, explained Fink in a 2005 issue of the International Journal of Cosmetic Science. Balms and other lip products aim to create this look.
If you are now ready to throw out your makeup bag and just stick to your lip gloss, consider this: At least one study, published in the International Journal of Cosmetic Science in 2003, found that lipstick alone does nothing to increase attractiveness.
Natural beauty is the ideal many people strive to achieve when they purchase make-up, creams, shampoos and other forms of cosmetics. But what really constitutes natural beauty, and how can it be achieved?
Many consumers, in an attempt to cleanse, tone, moisturize, mattify, shine, colour, enhance and so on, have overloaded their skin and their cabinets with too many needless products. Experts have found that 63 percent of all women complain of having developed 'sensitive skin', and many of these complaints can be traced back to an overcomplicated skin care regimen. In contrast, the needs of human skin are simple. They are cleansing, moisture, nourishment and protection. Skin which suffers from burning, reddening, pimples, rashes and other symptoms similar to these may be caused by or made worse from adverse reactions to the cosmetic products overloading many women's cabinets. Often many of these products claim to alleviate or eliminate the very symptoms they are causing.
When selecting skin care, it is best to choose a product formulated for your skin type. Everyone's skin is individual and varied, but to assist in product selection, and in understanding what your own skin needs, the following skin types have been generalized.
· Balanced, which is neither oily nor dry, and similar to the skin type of children.
· Oily
· Dry
· Sensitive, which is a condition involving reddening, burning or rashes when a cosmetic is applied.
· Problem, which is prone to acne and breakouts.
· Combination, which is most skin, containing oily and dry patches.
Beautiful skin can be obtained by making good choices for your skin, such as using cosmetic products and make-up which are truly natural. Eating a diet rich in vegetables, fruit, water and healthy oils (such as polyunsaturated fats, essential fatty acids found in flax seed oil, olive oil, etc.) all assist in achieving and maintaining healthy skin. Lastly, adequate rest, sleep and exercise also contribute significantly to beautiful skin.
· Gentle cleansing - depending on your skin type or preference, choose a natural soap.
· Toning - use a toner which is alcohol-free, infused with essential oils
· Daytime moisturizing - light or rich skin moisturizer
· Nighttime moisturizing - use facial oils formulated with essential oils
Make-up:
Choose make-up which is made with all natural ingredients and colours, regardless of one's age. All faces look fresh and naturally beautiful when colours which reflect the earth's vibrant range of hues are applied. Rainbow-like colours, or deep, dramatic shades cannot be obtained naturally in make-up without synthetically derived colours. These colours rarely look natural, are often trendy and go out of style quickly.
Great looking skin does not mean flawless, masked skin. Rather, lets reconstruct our notions of what constitutes 'beautiful skin' and 'beautiful faces', because perfection does not exist in the natural world, nor does it exist in human beings. Computers, cameras, lighting and other sophisticated technologies create "flawlessness", to create an ideal image no one can attain. Instead, beautiful skin and natural beauty is skin that is free from harmful chemicals, hydrated from within and on the surface, fed with balanced nutrition and wise food choices, and regulated with reasonable exercise. A positive outlook on life and an optimistic perspective also contribute to natural beauty, inside and out.
